Welcome to Grub Street’s quick rundown of must-try restaurants, where we try to answer the endlessly recurring question: Where should we go tonight? These are the spots that our food team thinks everyone should visit, for any reason (a new chef, the arrival of an exciting dish, or maybe there’s an opening that’s flown too far under the radar). This month, that means pillowy pommes dauphine in Williamsburg, a new khao soi contender in Carroll Gardens, and a reimagined Fidi high-rise.